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Yes still around and (crossed fingers) the car is still running fine. I don't need to use it that often but when I do it still compares well, both in performance and fuel consumption, to many other much newer cars I drive. I did replace the cambelt twice and the oil pump belt once (amongst many other things!). The reason I replaced the cambelt twice was because I had the belt exposed a second time for other reasons and noticed it had already started to deteriorate after about a year. The one I currently have fitted is a BGAutomotive (BGA) branded belt i.e. not the OEM Ford/Dayco one that most fit. I've just purchased some Castrol engine oil and a Ford oil filter to do a service. That will be the first service since I got the engine fully sorted. Until now the car has been running on Petronas engine oil to the correct spec. If I notice anything untoward during the service I'll update my post.

Was it fitted with the optional indicator pack ? 🤣🤣

Time to change the battery in the smoke alarm 🤣

If it were me (and I've been in that position), I would seek out the services of a local independent auto locksmith who will have the appropriate equipment to supply and program a working key fob. It will cost more than buying an AliExpress one, but at least you know it will work and be stress free. I would budget about €80 or so...

They're called 'Scrivets'. Designed to be hammered in but unscrewed to remove. https://www.sdproducts.co.uk/panel-and-trim-fasteners-plastic/scrivets

In my 60s I do appear to be having an increased amount of these. I was filling my big 5 liter watering can having turned the cold tap on max to get it done quickly. Near the top, I went to turn the tap off, nothing! I assumed the darn thing had jammed on. Brain went into emergency mode, was going to find the stopcock, contemplating if I still had the number of that helpful young plumber I used recently. Then it dawned on me. Yes, I was turning 'off' the hot tap when it was actually the cold tap that was running. I worry about me at times 😂

I wasn't. I rarely post in this section. 🤭

The trouble is there's no mechanism for recording that properly, or to distinguish between those who just make a mess of things or those who are specifically making a point, such as yourself. I'd welcome a "none of the above" option which would be properly recorded as such.

Yes, I used it occasionally but really not necessary to pass inferior vehicles and their drivers 😁

Hi Unofix Some photos as requested. The packing on top of the wheel is part of the package. Just noticed the two holes in the centre peice. I wonder if the key for for the lock wheel nut will fit in there? Centre packing removed showing wheel retaining clamp. Finally tray fitting over spare wheel. Just incase anyone out there is wondering. The scissor jack and spanner retained in wheel hub

I do like ...The BMW 840i Had the pleasure of driving one for a few hours. Smooth, stylish, comfortable, powerful - wish I could afford one 🙂

70 large domino pizzas for lunch thanks to the boss! Not all for me 🤣🤣

I do like new truck day 😎

Renault 😂😂

Just back from buying some donuts! Yes, keep the A/C on! 😂

They're all out on another call dealing with an outbreak of Stop/Start failures 🤣

How many did you get in your packet ? My packet was empty, I tried to ring and complain but couldn't get a signal 🤣

The insurance on my Ecoboom went down. I'm guessing they think it won't last a whole year 😀

I don't know the answer to your question but if you just had an advisory for light misting then I personally would not change it unless it obviously was not doing its job. I had light misting on one of mine, I cleaned it and it has not shown any signs of leaking since and that was a long time ago.

God loves a trier 👍 but even he would question your life choices 🤣

Yes, do yourself a favour and forget about the 'feature'. Ford only introduced it to get through some tighter emissions certification. Nothing more than a gimmick, and destroying the planet by getting folk to throw out perfectly serviceable batteries in the vain hope of getting it to work. Other opinions are available...

They are simply a guide to show where the slot is in the dark, activated when no CD inserted, and your headlights are on...

While out for a walk this morning, I was passed by an Audi RS 3 at the point he was changing down with a cacophony of pops, fa*rts and bangs. I suspected naughty remap and pipe, but the thing I liked was the registration: R53YOB! Very appropriate!😀

Doors are virtually impossible to post so local breakers are the best option. Unlikely to find one in the correct colour and spec and in good condition for a 20 year old car though. If your door isn't damaged, I'd persevere with the wiring issue personally. I used to basically give doors away for £5-£10 when breaking cars just to save me transporting them to the tip.

Just to put this to bed and who knows it might help someone else one day. Replaced the front crash sensor - still had the airbag light Noticed the horn wasn't working properly so replaced the clock spring. Horn worked but still had the airbag light. Did some more checks and looked like the circuit was fine even though error was 'circuit open'. Pointed to a dodgy RCM. Got a second hand RCM for £62, used Forscan to code it to the car (downloaded 'As built' data for my car using the VIN from Motrocraft.com) and that solved it! No sign of damage on the RCM removed, no idea why it failed. Finally.....

So do we !! 🤣

Wow, you must have a giant garage! 😆

Sadiq Khan is now enjoying his 3rd term as mayor. He has presided over the largest increase in knife crime ever. He has enforced the ’congestion’ zone. Introduced ULEZ (ignoring a public consultation heavily against and is currently under investigation for doing so), then pleased at it’s money raising power, increased the zone to ‘outer’ London. Building fewer social housing than Boris (!). Regularly displays traits of being as woke as you can get. Allowed ER to glue themselves to roads/trains and gave police direction to either just leave them, or spend hours using solvents to remove them. (They should have been left in situ if they glued themselves, and allow traffic to veer round them!) He regularly holds the government to ransom for demands to excess funding of TFL as he has lost total control of it’s operating budget. The list of his failings are endless, yet the majority of Londoners obviously love this guy to bits, as he gets chauffeured around in his £450,000 bomb proof Range Rover. You had a candidate (Howard Cox) whose manifesto included from day one, to terminate the congestion zone charge, and rescind the total ULEZ scheme, yet he barely registered in votes. Well, I guess some turkeys do vote for Christmas ... 😂

Yep, for that situation, you'll need a dumb charger like my 45 year old vintage one (bought new!). It'll charge anything as it hasn't a clue what it's doing, much like it's owner 😂

Isn't that another thing you have no direct experience of? It's the media that's the real issue, not specifically social media. Genuinely baffles me that so many people still believe anything they read in the newspaper (or online news outlets) without question. I could understand it with my grandparents generation, they grew up rurally with no internet and minimal TV, having to believe whatever they were told or read in a newspaper, but I don't understand why it's still happening in the internet age. That is a part of human behaviour that I'm still trying to work out. Though I'm probably too far the other way, I rarely believe anything without multiple sources of evidence from different perspectives to back it up. I do want to pick up on the other posts though, as it is important to note that the loudest voice is often not the majority voice. As a 'quiet' person, I rarely find myself in agreement with the noisy people...but of course they're the ones that get heard. With a vote like this, at least everyone gets the opportunity to have their say, without being drowned out by noisy people. As has been said above, people would vote for change if they were really unhappy with the current situation. I don't believe the low turnout is so much about laziness as the fact that the situation is 'adequate' for many non-voters.

You could just run an M10 die nut down the stud which will clean it and re-thread it at the same time. Just be careful that you use the correct thread pitch, there is an M10x1.5mm and an M10x1.25mm

For reference, it's not actually leather on the latest Ford seats. It's a vegan leather substitute known as Sensico. It's basically plastic, so won't benefit from leather cleaners which are designed for natural materials.

I don't get emmision printouts either. 🤣🤣

If it's a 1.6 TDCI, it uses an electro-hydraulic PAS pump. All other engines use a conventional hydraulic pump.

So following on, I managed to locate the EGR Valve based on part numbers and thorough Googling. Not much videos or anything available for this year, so I'm gonna say a few keywords for to attract any Googlers: Ford Focus Mk4 2018 2019 2020 Estate EcoBlue 1.5 Diesel EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation OBD Code P049b Exhaust Gas Recirculation B Flow Insufficient Detected I tried to get tothe EGR valve (part no. JN1Q-9M425, around £50 good condition 'used' on eBay), but after taking off the air intake hose and looking in it didn't look anywhere near as nasty as I expected based on 'clogged' EGR valves. I'm thinking this down to Ford's design for this EGR seems to be a different to some others I've seen in pictures and videos - the valve gate is right on the boundary of the valve so blockages happen before it - in the EGR cooling hose/pipe (part no. JN1Q-9F467) which runs directly below the EGR valve and is covered in a cloth like cover. Getting to that was a bit of a pain with all of the stuff in the way and for an amateur like me, removing as minimal as possible was the best option. I started by removing the jubilee clip for the air intake pipe, and disconnecting the 3 sensors on the EGR valve itself (circled in red in the pictures, 3 different types of attachment), one has a small sensor going into a hole in the casting which can be pulled out. I then loosened (not removed) the plastic frame surrounding the air intake where the wiring loom is attached to (5 big torx screws??), this gives a lot of room to work. I then removed the air intake assembly right from the filter box to the front vent by removing the two 2-part tapered plugs, and pulling the filter box out from it's rubber insulators after the lid (with delicate sensor, didn't remove) has been put aside. At this point, my torx head wouldn't fit into the gap between the radiator and the 2 bolts holding the EGR valve onto the engine. Doesn't matter anyway as what I was interested in was the hose below it, the EGR cooling hose/pipe. This is attached to the exhuast cooler near the base of the engine (silver box) and the bottom of the EGR valve via a rhombus flange each with 2x 8mm hex head bolts on both. Once all of the stuff mentioned above has been taken out of the way, it is fairly easy to get a ratchet socket spanner (mine was a mini Halfords one, perfect for the job) in there to remove the bolts. Be careful not to drop a bolt (or the socket) into the engine bay as if it's like mine and has got a bottom to it it's a bit hard to get back, it's a bit of a tricky setup and very limited room to work in. Once the bolts are removed, slide the EGR hose out. It's not very flexible which does help to remember the orientation it goes in, but difficult to get out. On the bottom of this hose should be a mesh filter with clips (no part number, couldn't find it). Mine was absolutely blocked up with thick soot that I couldn't see through it. My filter was also on the exhaust cooler (wrong??), the air flow should go INTO the dome shape and be clipped onto the EGR hose. The EGR hose was absolutely clean through - no problems there and though I didn't check the underside of the EGR valve I would imagine it is the same. All of the crud got caught in that mesh filter which must have then thrown me the EML for 'EGR Flow Insufficient'. I gave mine a spray with carb cleaner, let it sit for a few minutes, and blew it out with compressed air. Good as new. I also hoovered any loose stuff out of the exhaust cooler. Put it all back together again and hope the engine turns on. My EML was still on, even after warming up with a good drive. I reset the code with my machine and it hasn't yet come back on. I hope this was helpful for anyone who comes across this. Any questions or additional pictures please do not hesitate to ask and if I've said aything wrong - please correct me! First time doing anything like this. I've tried to upload a picture of the mesh filter but for whatever reason it's not letting me so it's here https://i.imgur.com/ioWZG4D.jpeg

New wetbelt may not have been fitted correctly during the refurb.

I LIKE BEING RIGHT, haha. Daughter was having issues with the keys to the Quashqai. Changed over the guts to new fobs with new batteries, then rang me as nothing worked and the keys just beeped and would'nt turn in the ignition. Told her there will be a transponder, she googled and came up with the eProm being mounted on the circuit board, so was adamant it should work. Told her to take the old case with the new key out to the car put them back to back and try again, success. Went over split the old case and sure enough there was a tiny transponder in the front section. Came away quite pleased with myself.

check the idiots guide here.. https://community.cyanlabs.net/t/updating-firmware-and-initial-setup-vgate-vlinker-fs-in-forscan/5539 https://www.vgatemall.com/downloadcenter Before using your Vgate vLinker FS for the first time with FORScan, you must update the connection settings. Connect the Vgate vLinker FS to the computer. Open FORScan. FORScan will open in the Vehicle and Interface Information page. Go to the Settings page. In the General tab, ensure Demo mode is NOT checked. Leave the Debug mode checked so you can log activities. Select the Connections tab. The settings here should be exactly as shown. Go back to the Vehicle page. Select Connect to Vehicle at the bottom of the page. FORScan will check for the adapter and list the connection and adapter type. At this point you will not have a profile set up for the vehicle if this is the first time connecting. Make a profile at this point. FORScan will create the profile and automatically name it with the VIN included. If you work on multiple vehicles, it’s a good idea to keep the VIN included. You can make multiple profiles for different or the same vehicles. The next stop is the DTC page. Make this a habit to always check the DTC status as this can prevent you from making asbuilt or firmware changes in certain modules. Clear the DTC’s and rescan to ensure the vehicle health before you start modifying things.

I wonder if you've lost the signal from one of the ABS sensors (hence the traction control warning). Maybe you disturbed something whilst working on the brakes. You really need to use Forscan to see what DTCs are being thrown up.

I personally strongly disagree on that point, but I think individuals are entitled to their own views, unless of course you live in Scotland 🤣

Hopefully, after 13 years, the coolant level has remained constant

That's why I knew the answer 🤣

They indicate whether side 1 or side 2 of the CD is playing.

At 2014 you are due a belt change anyway

The Mk3 was released in 2010. So 2010 to 2012 could be either Mk2.5 or Mk3. Both very different cars. The DPF issues of the early Mk2.5's were largely solved from 2009 onwards by fitting a coated DPF instead of the old Eolys additive type. Most reliable is definitely the 1.6 petrol. However they cost more to fuel and tax, and are fairly slow in a Focus without much torque, so it depends on what your priorities really are. Only you can decide that. The cambelt is overdue on all 1.6 petrol and diesels of that age, so I would expect to see at least one belt change on any of them. Though there's no harm in buying one without belt history as long as you have it changed yourself as soon as possible. I'd say 80-120k is about right for mileage on a car of that age, with petrols being at the lower end and diesels at the higher end.

Final update.....the problem is fixed. In a nutshell, the original battery drain was the hardwire dashcam. The 'new' battery that was then purchased wasn't, as it transpired, as new as we thought. It would not hold a charge overnight, which then led us to believe we had a secondary source of parasitic drain. We proved that by charging up the 'old' battery, putting that on the car which, by morning was still around 12v. Do the same with a 24 hour charged 'new' battery, next morning, completely dead, down to less than 3v. Replacement battery, dashcam hardwire removed, car is now fine. Thanks for all the help. Cheers.

Crikey, I still have a folder of them from my Celica GT4, and some from mums 20+year old Toyota Yaris LOL That's my pension fund sorted!

It's the ABS wheel speed sensor. Cost about £25 for a genuine Ford part. This is an example on eBay (not the exact part for your car): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385390578314

Ford are rather quite proud of the design. Sales of replacement handles has exceeded all expectations 🤣

....and as Dan would say "Give me a call when you finish modifying it and can't get insurance" 🤣