Ben... Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Tooling Required New Springs Trolley Jack Spring Compressors Axle Stand Metric Spanners (Ideally Ratchet Spanners) An 18mm Ring Spanner (See Step 16) Metric Allen Keys Metric socket set Torque Wrench Step 1 Purchase Springs Step 2 Jack up the rear of one side of the car Remove wheel Step 3 Undo bolt at the base of the shock 15mm socket Step 4 Either 1. Get someone to stand on the hub (easy option) 2. Compress the rear spring (hard to get to) An pull the spring out Step 5 Get your new spring and put the locating rubber grommet in the top (Writing goes the correct way up) Step 6 Replace the new spring getting the top in place first Either 1. Get someone to stand on the hub and fit spring 2. Slightly compress the side of the spring closest to the front of the car and fit spring Then replace wheel Step 7 Jack up the other side of the car and replace the other rear spring Step 8 Jack up the front of one side of the car Remove Wheel Step 9 Using spring compressors Put one on each side of the spring Tighten each compressor a little bit at a time keeping the spring even Tighten until the spring can rattle about and feels loose Step 10 Locate 3 strut bolts in engine bay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben... Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 Step 11 Remove 2 of the nuts and loosen the third 13mm Ratchet Spanner Step 12 Undo brake hose mounting clip 10mm Ratchet Spanner Step 13 Undo the bolt attaching the drop link to the shock 15mm Ratchet Spanner 5mm Allen Key Step 14 Undo the 2 bolts attatching the shock to the hub 18mm Socket 15mm Socket/15mm Ratchet Spanner Step 15 Undo the remaining nut in the engine bay 13mm Ratchet Spanner Push down the hub The shock should now just fall out Step 16 Undo the bolt holding the strut together 18mm Ring Spanner 6mm Allen Key Step 17 Pull off Metal Top Plate, Plastic Spacer & Rubber Housing Then loosen the spring compressors a little bit at a time keeping the spring even Step 18 Compress new spring to the same length the old one was compressed to Put the spring on the shock Replace Rubber Housing, Plastic Spacer & Metal Top Plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben... Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 Step 19 Replace nut on the the stud 18mm Ring Spanner 6mm Allen Key Step 20 Put strut back in place and replace the 3 nuts in the engine bay 13mm Ratchet Spanner Put an axle stand under the lower arm Step 21 Lower trolley jack slowly until the bolt attaching the drop link to the shock lines up with the hole Replace the nut 15mm Ratchet Spanner 5mm Allen Key Step 22 Replace the 2 bolts attacthing the strut to the hub Replace the bolt fixing the brake hose in place Remove the spring compressors Then replace Wheel Step 23 Do the same to the other side Note the spring compressors do not need to be put on the front springs until the shocks have been removed from the car 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Excellent! I bet a few have been looking for something like this. nice one. Only thing i would have done differently is compressing the spring, you should be able to remove and install the shock without the need to compress it. the 2 bolts at the bottom of the strut attaching it to the steering knuckle, is one of those a camber bolt? cheers stef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben... Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 But then there is tension on the all the bolts you need to remove. Was my first time doing it so though better be safe than sorry lol. Thanks for advice though. Having the 2 bolts holds the hub at the right angle so I presume it's to do with camber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 But then there is tension on the all the bolts you need to remove. Was my first time doing it so though better be safe than sorry lol. Thanks for advice though. Having the 2 bolts holds the hub at the right angle so I presume it's to do with camber So I guess you don't have the car under warranty right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben... Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Well it is until September Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Well it is until September I guess I will have to go to ford for the fitting...right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben... Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Or to an approved garage I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M.K Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Did you get your wheels checked by a garage after doing this? Nice guide for anybody willing to do this task :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Or to an approved garage I think Yes, probably the also accept this option... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 But then there is tension on the all the bolts you need to remove. Was my first time doing it so though better be safe than sorry lol. Thanks for advice though. Having the 2 bolts holds the hub at the right angle so I presume it's to do with camber with the strut still in place uncompressed the lower arm will drop a few inches away from it so there shouldn't be any tension on the bolts. I only ask about the bolts holding the hub as one of them may be a cam bolt to set the camber? all the best, stef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben... Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Did you get your wheels checked by a garage after doing this? Nice guide for anybody willing to do this task :) Wheels?! :S Will get my tracking done in a few weeks with the strut still in place uncompressed the lower arm will drop a few inches away from it so there shouldn't be any tension on the bolts. I only ask about the bolts holding the hub as one of them may be a cam bolt to set the camber? all the best, stef Ah right, that would of saved some time lol THey set camber but don't adjust it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zetecd Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Dose changing your springs to ebach affect your warranty if you do it your self Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tato Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Dose changing your springs to ebach affect your warranty if you do it your self Most likely will affect the warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D4nz0 Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Did my instructions help much mate? Also, I agree with the compressors comment earlier, fitting them when unit is on car is pointless and more hassle. I'm actually really surprised you took the rear wheel off. Just jack it right up and use the weight of the alloy to help lower rear arm regardless of whether u use a mate to stand on it or use compressors for rears. I would also recommend having a separate.scissor jack for raising the disc when refitting the droplink, reason for this is coz a lot of trolley jacks don't allow slow controlled releases, and could easily lead to !Removed! up the car if u done it wrong. Just scissor jack under the disc, being careful until you can fit drop link back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben... Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Yer they did help mate.. Thanks for that I agree also, just didn't know at the time and wanted to be safe rather than sorry I took the rear wheel off because I was on my own and with the wheel off I could put weight on the hub while moving the spring in to place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_davis92 Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 eibech are a ford approved company so it shouldnt affect the warrenty... but does this also apply for coilovers or is it a completely different story?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D4nz0 Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 eibech are a ford approved company so it shouldnt affect the warrenty... but does this also apply for coilovers or is it a completely different story?? The fact is, if you fit them yourself, you void your warranty. You need an Eibach Approved fitter to keep your warranty intact. Namely a Ford garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ONETrueSaturday Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Well in on the guide mate. However I might get it fitted by a pro as Im no car expert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorfer Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Wow, fantastic guide. I am a complete rookie at car mods and have been blasting this forum with silly questions lol but this guide (WITH PICTURES :)) is amazing. I mybe just give it a go on my mk6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stef123 Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 Wow, fantastic guide. I am a complete rookie at car mods and have been blasting this forum with silly questions lol but this guide (WITH PICTURES :)) is amazing. I mybe just give it a go on my mk6 IIRC the front setup is a bit different on the mk6. on the mk7 the struts are bolted to the steering knuckle but on the mk6 they are fitted into the steering knuckle. bit more of a PITA on the mk6 but still quite easy, especially if you open up the split where the pinch bolt goes through to clamp the strut, there are a few tools out there for doing this but a chisel usually works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sambooka Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 i take it if you get this done by ford or approved dealer then you warranty is still valid then. i only ask because i have a year and a half remaining on mine and im itching to start modding it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNath Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 i take it if you get this done by ford or approved dealer then you warranty is still valid then. i only ask because i have a year and a half remaining on mine and im itching to start modding it Correct :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Crossey Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 as a qulified ford tech and for safety concerns i dont recomend using spiral spring clamps of that nature as ive seen first hand them slipping off and putting a man in hospital for near 2 years because the spring hit him up the face. secondly i dont reccomend fitting lowering springs without lowered shocks as when the rear axel drops to full relaise the spring can jump out of the spring seats and then the wheel pushes through the top of the arch,also ford only warrents a car that has the matching lowered/shortened shocks fitted at the same time,doesnt have to be ford fits them but a qulified ford tech can fit them outside of a ford garage too. brake and suspension mods should not be atempted by somone that has not enough experiance as at the end of the day life is worth more than damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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