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Please help diagnose NO crank NO start. MK1 Focus. DASHES


1slowevo9
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(PLEASE HELP DIAGNOSE) I have searched all over the internet and tried nearly everything. I posted on other forums but not much help. Day 6 of diag.

•2003 Focus SE (Auto) 156k miles. 2.0 Zetec

Car suddenly does not crank. Dash lights light up in on position. Dashes (-----) on the odometer. Red theft light above radio is blinking (1x every 2seconds). Can't pull any codes does not communicate with ECU (Error).
Cluster code menu DTC d262 flashing. Recently, I noticed if I move the key around hard enough in the ON position, the theft light Dims/Flashes fast/Stops, intermittently (VIDEO BELOW). Starting to think of a possible ignition switch?

Any other ideas of what to do/look for other than what I have already done listed below?

-Checked all fuses and swapped diodes and swapped relays in engine bay fuse box. (All fuses have continuity)
-Checked all fuses and swapped relays in driver side dash fuse box. (All fuses have continuity)
-Removed ECU and took apart and did not see anything unusual.
-Checked multiple pins at ECU and got voltage.
-Small orange/black ground wire that goes directly from battery ground (-) to the harness in the engine bay is good.
-Two ground wires from the battery to the driver wheel well cleaned and secured.
-Battery is in upper "Good" condition under battery load test.
-Tried starting with secondary key.

Recently I did an aftermarket radio install on the vehicle and I also changed the servo piston in the transmission and rebuild the valve body. Car drove absolutely amazing with no problems at all for two days. On the third day no start no crank happened. Only thing different was last day of driving, I backed up on to the driveway instead of regularly driving it in. Overnight was normal weather condition no rain etc.

(I can't think of anything else).
Thank you so much in advance.

-Ed

 

 

 

Edited by 1slowevo9
added vid
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Sounds like either the PATS immobiliser ring on the ignition switch has gone down or the immobiliser chip in the key has gone down

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3 hours ago, DaveT70 said:

Sounds like either the PATS immobiliser ring on the ignition switch has gone down or the immobiliser chip in the key has gone down

I second that diagnosis.

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12 hours ago, 1slowevo9 said:

Dash lights light up in on position. Dashes (-----) on the odometer.

I'd suspect that you have an instrument cluster fault. The PATS security system is part of the IC on your model. Is the gear selector position indicator showing the vehicle is in Park ?

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11 minutes ago, unofix said:

I'd suspect that you have an instrument cluster fault. The PATS security system is part of the IC on your model. Is the gear selector position indicator showing the vehicle is in Park ?

I'm not sure if it is on MK1

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12 minutes ago, unofix said:

Is the gear selector position indicator showing the vehicle is in Park?

Ah, now that is a very good point, missed that.

If the selector position switch is faulty it will think it's not in Park or neutral and not start

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8 hours ago, DaveT70 said:

Sounds like either the PATS immobiliser ring on the ignition switch has gone down or the immobiliser chip in the key has gone down

The immobilizer ring is suspect at this point, since i have tried both of the keys for the vehicles.

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2 hours ago, unofix said:

I'd suspect that you have an instrument cluster fault. The PATS security system is part of the IC on your model. Is the gear selector position indicator showing the vehicle is in Park ?

The only gear selector that shows gears is next to the lever, and it does move along with the lever. Also tried starting in N. I heave read a few posts about the neutral safety switch on the transmission. But, i din't think that would not let you pull codes from the OBD2. 

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I appreciate all the reply's. I CANNOT wait to figure out what the problem is.

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13 minutes ago, 1slowevo9 said:

But, i din't think that would not let you pull codes from the OBD2. 

Agreed. Are you using FORScan and a good ELM327(modified) cable to try and read from the OBDII port ?

So it's back to the probable instrument cluster fault as far as my thinking goes. If you give the top of the instrument cluster/dashboard a good 'thump' with your hand does anything on the display change?

 

 

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1 hour ago, unofix said:

Agreed. Are you using FORScan and a good ELM327(modified) cable to try and read from the OBDII port ?

So it's back to the probable instrument cluster fault as far as my thinking goes. If you give the top of the instrument cluster/dashboard a good 'thump' with your hand does anything on the display change?

 

 

Multiple thumps and no difference. I am using a FOXWELL scanner and tried a few other ones, but they cannot connect to the PCM. From other forums "usually" when the scanner can't connect to the PCM and dashes (----) on the odometer, it means that the PCM is not getting power. But as I stated above, the PCM is getting power, so therefore it should be another problem or the PCM is not reacting with the vehicle.

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Have you used a multimeter to measure the voltage of the OBDII port ?

Pin 14 is 12V positive and Pin 4 is the Ground

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12 minutes ago, unofix said:

Have you used a multimeter to measure the voltage of the OBDII port ?

Pin 14 is 12V positive and Pin 4 is the Ground

Yes i did. Got voltage 

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It must be some sort of PATS issue or something related to the PATS. Today when i just turned ignition ON position, PATS light was OFF, then started flashing, then blinking, then dimming all on its own without me wiggling the keys or doing anything except spectating the light and cluster, while dashes on the cluster stayed. 

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15 hours ago, 1slowevo9 said:

The only gear selector that shows gears is next to the lever, and it does move along with the lever. Also tried starting in N. I heave read a few posts about the neutral safety switch on the transmission. But, i din't think that would not let you pull codes from the OBD2. 

That's just a moving light attached to the shifter, there's a sensor switch in there somewhere to tell the PCM you are in P or N

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I believe FORScan does not support Focus MK1

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Yes, I would imagine, it's combined with the reverse light switch like old autos

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Given the OP has recently done work on the gearbox then it could be the wiring or switch has become damaged.

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4 hours ago, unofix said:

Given the OP has recently done work on the gearbox then it could be the wiring or switch has become damaged.

Thanks for all the replies. I will look into that. I just figured the neutral safety switch would throw a code like P084F, for example. Weird that i also drove the car for 2 days after the work was done without issues. The odly intermittent flashing/dimming/blinking PATS light is what i can't get my head around. 😡

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2 hours ago, 1slowevo9 said:

I just figured the neutral safety switch would throw a code like P084F, for example.

If the switch or the wiring is broke, then the PCM will just see that as if the vehicle gear selector is not in Park (or neutral). It will therefore not have a DTC.

Using the Foxwell scanner, is it possible to view the gear selector positions ?

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1 hour ago, unofix said:

If the switch or the wiring is broke, then the PCM will just see that as if the vehicle gear selector is not in Park (or neutral). It will therefore not have a DTC.

Using the Foxwell scanner, is it possible to view the gear selector positions ?

I am not sure if it does that, but that would be read through through PCM from the OBD2, right? If so, the PCM isn't communicating. I can't connect to it. 

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Would this be a good time to measure the resistance across the CANBUS pins at the OBD socket in case there's a break between it and the PCM?

If memory serves from reading posts in other threads there is a 120 Ohm termination resistor at each end of the CANBUS, one in the ECU and the other in the cluster. Resistance should therefore be 60 Ohms measured at the OBD socket. If it's 120 that would indicate a break.

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27 minutes ago, mjt said:

Would this be a good time to measure the resistance across the CANBUS pins at the OBD socket in case there's a break between it and the PCM?

If memory serves from reading posts in other threads there is a 120 Ohm termination resistor at each end of the CANBUS, one in the ECU and the other in the cluster. Resistance should therefore be 60 Ohms measured at the OBD socket. If it's 120 that would indicate a break.

Agreed, a useful test to carry out and at least establish if the Canbus is complete.

Remember that Ford use both a Medium Speed and a High Speed Canbus

https://pinoutguide.com/CarElectronics/ford_obd_2_pinout.shtml

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