ABS blowing fuse's help and or advice needed :)

[YBTURBO]

So for a while i have had the nice amber ABS light on my dash and the code "C1095 pump motor circiut failure" when scanned with forscan. today i have had a little time to play around and do some digging and found the 30amp fuse had blown.

replaced the fuse and cleared the code and unlike before it was replaced the light went out and stayed out, started the car and was all happy no lights on the dash. less than 50 meters down the road light back on scan come back up with the same original fault and another fuse blown. anyone got any ideas on what could be causing it to blow the 30amp fuse the 20amp and 3amp fuses seem to be fine.

cant really give any more info other than that as its all i have right now but can check/test things if someone can point me in the right direction. also i should add that the fuse i replaced it with was from an OLD multi pack with some corrosion on the legs so could this just be a case of it needs a new non corroded fuse!

as always thanks in advance for any help or advice 🙂

 

[unofix]

You have a fault. A fuse is just a bit of wire that melts, even a gold plated 30 Amp fuse is still going to blow.

Is this the fuse for the ABS system ?

The most likely culprit is going to be the ABS pump. If that is the case it's not just as simple as swapping it out, they are coded. The replacement will need to be programmed in to the car. If it is the ABS pump then a simpler option is to send it away for repair and refurbishment to one of a handful of authorised repairers. Then you don't have all the issues of trying to find a dealer willing to programme in a second hand part. 

[YBTURBO]

8 minutes ago, unofix said:

is this the fuse for the ABS system ?

Yes there's 3 listed on the fuse box 20amp 30amp and 3amp its the 30amp thats blowing.

9 minutes ago, unofix said:

The most likely culprit is going to be the ABS pump. If that is the case it's not just as simple as swapping it out

there's 2 types of ABS pump on the 1.4TDCI a large one that needs programming and a small one that dont. i have the small one and being a tool and not checking the fuses first i already swapped that out and same error code on both. however it wasnt until today i found the dead fuse and on replacing it everything was happy when the code was cleared and car was started until i drove it then it killed the fuse again and same error code came up. before changing the fuse clearing the code done nothing it just came straight back up with the same error code.

so the big question is whats killing the fuse :S where to look next.

[unofix]

1 hour ago, YBTURBO said:

whats killing the fuse

ABS pump ?

Have you used FORScan again to check for new DTC's ? There is sure to be at least one code if the fuse has blown

[YBTURBO]

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

ABS pump ?

Have you used FORScan again to check for new DTC's ? There is sure to be at least one code if the fuse has blown

C1095 pump motor circiut failure

thats the code and description from FORScan. wont clear until the fuse is changed but like i say as soon as the car is driven it blows the fuse again and comes back up.

found out about the 2 pumps when i changed the pump originally and went to the local ford stealers to ask about getting them to code it thinking thats why i couldnt clear the fault and their fitter told me i have the small pump that dont need coding! could that be bad info?

or am i on the right track and need to find something other than the pump at fault?

 

[unofix]

You've exceeded my knowledge on the type of ABS pump you have I'm afraid. Perhaps @iantt would be able to offer more help. Personally I'd suspect a fault with the ABS pump motor. To blow the 30A fuse needs to be either a short-circuit or something like the motor that can draw a large current.

[YBTURBO]

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

You've exceeded my knowledge on the type of ABS pump

if its any help i can get pics of the original its still in my boot 🙂

[unofix]

Bring them on !!!!

The more info the better, even if I can't help, Ian and others like Tom maybe able to point you in the right direction.

[YBTURBO]

[TomsFocus]

I can confirm that looks like an ABS pump...  

Seriously though, if you've had two pumps that are both blowing the same fuse under the same circumstances, it sounds like you've got a wiring short somewhere.  The pump self-tests as you start to drive and it sounds like it's that self-test blowing the fuse.  Need to get the mulitmeter out...although with so many pins on an ABS module, I'd suggest trying to find the correct pin-out to narrow down the wiring checks first.

[YBTURBO]

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

I can confirm that looks like an ABS pump...  

yeah 2 pumps doing the same thing, im gonna treat it to a new set of disk's and pads today and i've picked up some more fuses ready for the multimeter fun :S

any idea's on where i can find a pin-out for it and any tips on an order of things to look at/for. only thing i can confirm is the wheel speed sesonrs are working as i can see them all on the live data feed and they all show up. beyond that i have no idea what or where the wiring fault would be although im guessing its going to be something shorting somewhere!

[TomsFocus]

2 minutes ago, YBTURBO said:

yeah 2 pumps doing the same thing, im gonna treat it to a new set of disk's and pads today and i've picked up some more fuses ready for the multimeter fun :S

any idea's on where i can find a pin-out for it and any tips on an order of things to look at/for. only thing i can confirm is the wheel speed sesonrs are working as i can see them all on the live data feed and they all show up. beyond that i have no idea what or where the wiring fault would be although im guessing its going to be something shorting somewhere!

Might be a diagram in the Haynes manual if you have one.  If not, Unofix might have one when he see's this.

Removing speed sensors from the check is a good start, that's 8 wires out of the way already.  As it's blowing a 30a fuse, I reckon you'd be looking for the thickest wires first, they'll be the ones running pump.  Looks like the outermost pins on that plug.

[unofix]

3 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Might be a diagram in the Haynes manual if you have one.  If not, Unofix might have one when he see's this.

I don't have any schematics for a 2007 Fiesta, although I do have the full Ford schematics for the 2012 which would at least show you the general configuration of the ABS and the Vehicle Dynamic Systems. Let me know if you want them.

The 30A fuse is the main supply for the operation of the ABS pump module and it comes direct from the vehicles battery. It is live all of the time even with the ignition off, which proves the fault is NOT before the ABS and must be caused either by a faulty unit (I know you have already replaced this once) or it has to be something which is connected to the ABS and the fault only occurs when the system becomes active, ie. when driving the car.

As you already know there are 4 pairs of wires going to the wheel speed sensors, but the wiring to these is small gauge and I'd be surprised if they were able to carry enough current to blow a 30 Amp fuse without suffering damage.

The actual ABS pump motor will have a resistance of less than 0.5 ohm so don't get fooled in to thinking that you have found the short-circuit when checking connections with a meter.

If you're up to trying to fault find using a digital meter and want me to try and talk you through the process then let me know. There is no quick way, just a slow methodical and logical approach to fault finding.

[YBTURBO]

20 minutes ago, unofix said:

The 30A fuse is the main supply for the operation of the ABS pump module and it comes direct from the vehicles battery.

would love any help you might be albe to offer im not expert but i do have a multi meter and can follow directions fairly well 🙂

the main thing i lack like most of us is excess money so getting an auto sparky to check it right now isnt an option but im more than willing to put what ever spare time i have into trying to find the issue. the abs not working dont really bother me too much but it would still be nice to get the light out and have it doing what it should just because it should.

thats the multimeter i have not sure if it makes a difference what one it is but its ac/dc and has most settings available.

i'll be going to change the brake disks and pads in around an hour or so when been waiting for the sun to get from where i work on the car and for it to cool down a little so will be happy to go round one of hunting when they are done.

edit: i also have a LOT of tri-rated cable should i need to get the tester to points too far apart for the standard leads

Edited June 14, 2023 by YBTURBO
added info

[unofix]

I'm assuming that your car does NOT have ESP. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Below are some circuits from the 2012 Fiesta to give you the general idea of how it all works.

[YBTURBO]

5 minutes ago, unofix said:

I'm assuming that your car does NOT have ESP. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

your correct it has no ESP i'll print them off and take them with me for reference cause no way i'll remember what i read now by the time im trying to check, thanks again for the help this would be a lot harder just trying to follow wires 🙂

[unofix]

Please post some photos of the wiring and the connector(s) of the ABS. Also photo of the ABS connector removed so I can view the pinout.

[YBTURBO]

7 minutes ago, unofix said:

Please post some photos of the wiring and the connector(s) of the ABS. Also photo of the ABS connector removed so I can view the pinout.

will be in a few hours by time i get too it and get back but i'll take as many pics as i can and post them when i get home, i'll try take them of the both side of the connector and any wiring i can get too 🙂

[YBTURBO]

pics and quick update, im fairly sure the wrap on them wires is not genuine ford! and the test results from the abs test on the mobile verion of FORScan. got pics of the connector and cables in/on it as best i could from all angles.

now for a short story with the update!

changed the brake disks and pads as planned then removed the battery and everything else i had too so i could get to the wires not knowint where to start yet i decided to take all the pics and then put everything back until i have more time/advice. now i have it all back together i figured i'd pop in a new fuse and check the point it blows and see if i can notice anything. change the fuse and this time after clearing the code it like last time stayed off (hadnt moved that car yet). then i remembered there was tests in the app for the abs so figured why not run that and see if that triggers the fuse blowing and if it would tell me anything new. it didnt blow the fuse but it did come back with the same error as you can see in the pic, but the light stayed off! so thought nothing of it and it was time to get back home so i figued drive it and see exactly when the light comes back on and the fuse blows. well slowly driving it up to speed to i could keep a close eye exactly as expected 15mph ABS light comes back on the dash, however this time it hasnt blown the fuse.

im getting more and more confused here as time go's on but my next chance to try look at it and do anything now is next tuesday (next day off work) so i guess until then any info anyone can throw my way i'll collect up and just see what/how it go's next tuesday and report back. if there is anything that is fairly quick i can try then i'll get on that before i go to work one day before next tuesday but anything that could take a while will have to wait until then.

thanks as always guys all help and advice is alwaya appreciated without it i'd be working blind and paying out money i dont have lol

[unofix]

I suspect the problem is with the wire in the connector. Cut and remove the cable tie and if possible remove the connector backshell. Very carefully inspect each wire for signs of damage or worn insulation. It's common with these type of connectors for the wires to rub against each other and wear through the insulation.

[YBTURBO]

2 minutes ago, unofix said:

I suspect the problem is with the wire in the connector. Cut and remove the cable tie and if possible remove the connector backshell. Very carefully inspect each wire for signs of damage or worn insulation. It's common with these type of connectors for the wires to rub against each other and wear through the insulation.

i will make that my first point thing to do/check next tuesday 🙂 i'll also get pics as im doing it. in the mean time i'll try look into how to take the connector apart. also if you know what pins are in there and where i can get replacements that be awesome i have a crimping tool for just about all types of connectors but im useless when it comes to knowing what ones are in what

 

[unofix]

No need to remove the pins/crimps from the connector housing.

Just remove the cable tie and also the plastic backshell which will unclip.

[YBTURBO]

7 minutes ago, unofix said:

plastic backshell which will unclip

ahhh thats awesome i shouldnt have too much trouble with that 🙂 i'll just take it slow and easy when im doing it.

[YBTURBO]

update time later than planned ended up busy, got the cable tie off and cant see any signs of damage to the cables however i have found 2 of the wires seem to have tape on them just as they go into the loom so my next step depening on what you lot say is going to be to try cut open the loom and see what/why the tape is there for. added a couple of pics showing the wires without the cable tie and showing the 2 wires taped. also couldnt work out how to get the plasitcs off but got a good view of the cables with it on.

 

[YBTURBO]

Stripped back part of the non legit looking loom, seems to be about 100 rolls of insolation tape rapped around the wires, however not too gar back up it i found a number of taped wires!

images below.