Fiesta 1.4 TDCi EGR and injectors question

[DarrenNewsgroup]

Hi, first post of a new member.

My daughter's Fiesta 1.4 TDCi 2008 (mark 6 facelift) has some problem that I am hoping someone can help with.

When she bought it the car seemed fine but on the way home (motorway driving 70mph) I noticed about 6 times the car would lose power for less than a second and then recover. When we got it checked at our garage they said there were fault codes saying the EGR valve was faulty and injector 2 reported a misfire. They didn't give the exact codes but they reset them and said that they would probably come back again.

The car would start first time but sounded rough and after a few minutes driving would show the engine warning light and stop. Restarting the car was ok and the car would drive fine afterwards. Sometimes the car would stop 2 or 3 times. It seemed once the car was warmed up it was ok.

Looking on this site and others the first port of call was the EGR valve. I tried Wynns EGR valve cleaner sprayed into the air intake but this did not fix the problem. When the car was cold it would conk out once or twice before driving normally. I also put some Wynns injector cleaner for diesel engines in the fuel tank with at least 20 litres of diesel.

My next attempt was to blank off the EGR valve which I managed to do by just removing the MAF pipework, air box and piping but leaving the fuel filter in place, unscrewing the 2 separate 8mm EGR valve bolts, pulling the EGR valve away slightly, inserting the blanking plate between the EGR and the existing metal shim, then tightening the bolts again and finally reassembling the air box and reconnecting the MAF pipework and electrical connector.

This did not fix the problem the next morning but it did seem to make things better a few days later CV but I'm not sure if that is a placebo effect or not.

After doing the EGR valve blanking my ELM327 OBD2 reader and Android "FORScan Demo" app showed error codes P0238-E0 and P0002-00. I managed to reset the P0002-00 code and it has not come back but the P0238-00 persists. Googling shows this error is Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High. Did I knock/move something whilst doing the EGR blanking? I have tried googling the boost sensor location on my car to investigate but can't find is location. The check engine light stays on because of this fault code I believe. Currently it is the only fault code showing on the car.

When I had the air box off I looked at the 4 injectors and the leftmost 2 injectors seemed gunked up around the tops (faulty seals?) but the rightmost 2 look clean.

Questions
Q1 Could the injector misfire be a one off problem logged from years ago as I have not seen the code since the code garage reset it. The car has shown the check engine light regularly and sometimes even the exclamation mark light with system fault see owner's manual.

Q2 Is the P0238-E0 error due to the EGR blanking plate confusing the ECU or did I move/break the boost pressure sensor?

Q3 Should it get the injector seals cleaned and replaced?

Q4 Should I get a new injector 2? How can I tell whether this is a good idea since it will be £165 + labour just on the off chance of fixing something?

The car is drivable at the moment, just some days it stops and my daughter says it lacks acceleration. I am happy to unscrew simple things but am put off bleeding fuel systems as I have never done it before. I can perform simple checks/fixes on weekends only.

Sorry for the long post but I felt it better to explain the full story first rather than bouncing between myself and any helpers with the obvious first tests.

Thanks
Darren

[zain611]

Hey Darren, if your getting an engine light for the EGR it might be because the ECU might not be able to move the valve probably because it's got stuck by the carbon. I have a mk6 1.6 diesel and cleaned and blanked mine and no light has come on so if the 1.4 is the same as the 1.6 it may mean the ECU only throws up a light if it notices it cant move the EGR valve. The EGR valve is identical between the two engines. Once when I bought my car I was driving it in and out the garage for 3 months as I waited for my insurance renewal of my previous car. The engine light came on saying about the EGR probably because I kept driving at low speeds. 

With the injectors you could do a diesel leak off test. Helps look to see if the injectors are okay and if they might be leaking. 

When I bought my car a day after I noticed it would run lumpy and chug a bit of smoke when started after it had been sitting for several hours. There was no fault codes on mine however. Changed the glow plugs, no difference so believed one of the injectors were leaking. Got all 4 of my injectors reconditioned and it solved the problem. 

I'd also check the fault codes again as you said the garage deleted them however if it's still a pending issue the code would come up again. 

 

You could check my project and what I did for the injectors and EGR 

https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/97539-mk65-fiesta-zetec-s-upgrades/

[isetta]

I can't comment on much of what has been mentioned due to lack of knowledge. The only thing I can say is that when my injectors were leaking past the seals on my previous 1.6tdci I cured it by doing the retaining nuts up slightly tighter. Don't overdo it. If you strip a thread or snap a stud you will really be in trouble.

[DarrenNewsgroup]

Thanks guys for the responses. She said today that the car was really juddering at 70mph on the motorway so had to slow it down to 60mph. She is not happy at the moment. I will try and remove the EGR valve on the weekend and clean it up and remove the blanking plate (£3 off eBay). I will look at how to do the leak off test. What should I use to clean the EGR with?

Darren

[Tdci-Peter]

23 hours ago, DarrenNewsgroup said:

this error is Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High. Did I knock/move something whilst doing the EGR blanking? I have tried googling the boost sensor location on my car to investigate but can't find is location.

That is a hardware related error for the MAP sensor, it seems odd if it was to caused by the EGR blanking plate.

The item 12T551 on the drawing here is the MAP or Boost sensor.

This came from: https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/47/no/13/1549/15361/66696/

So it is connected by a hose to either that Resonator unit (9F763) or to the hose from it. It must be between the Turbo & the inlet manifold.

The original power dips do sound like an EGR problem, and this could have been putting the light on for EGR related codes. Blanking will stop the power dips.

I would thoroughly check & clean out the EGR and try to get rid of the MAP related code before considering an injector replacement!

[DarrenNewsgroup]

Thanks for that picture, that will give me something to look for.

As for the injectors I have read that you can test the resistance with a digital volt meter (I've got one of them). I can also test the DC supply 12V on one wire and 0V on the other. I can also test the firing pulse from the ECU via a special tool with a light and wire to the battery. Instead of the light could I use my DVM and see some sort of average voltage? I am guessing the pulse is 12V grounded to 0V for a short period so perhaps my DVM would read 3V if it is being grounded 75% of the time or 9V if 25%. These tests I could do without removing the injectors, probably just unscrewing the wiring loom (?) from above the injectors. I have also read that you can test a fitting injector by a 2 foot long screwdriver pressed against each injector. I guess the firing makes a vibration that goes up the screwdriver and you can "hear" it is you get your head close to the handle end, obviously keeping clothes and long hair out of the way of the engine and moving parts.

 

Question, are these good tests to help isolate injector failures?

 

Would it help to upload an audio recording of the engine to see if anyone can hear any chuffing or misfiring?

I have also read about cleaning injectors yourself but I don't want to go down that route yet.

Thanks

Darren

 

P.S. I have the "notify me of replies" but I haven't had any emails yet. Is this feature of the site working? EDIT: I think I have fixed this bit, it seems the default nitification settings are to popup on the website rather than send an email. I've hopefully ticked the email response so I can keep track of you great people's replies.

Edited March 21, 2019 by DarrenNewsgroup
Answered my own question about topic updates notified by an email

[DarrenNewsgroup]

, Two other questions (sorry for asking so much but I've been learning loads about this car).

Q1, there are supposed to be 2 bolts that hold each injector down, should I tighten these up to ensure the injectors are seated correctly? Is there a torque value I should tighten them up to?

 

Q2, if the injectors are booked down directly can I spray carb cleaner around the area, agitate the area with a knife/toothbrush, then use a thin tube connected to a hoover to clean up as much gunk out of the area so I can tell if more diesel is being sprayed/leaking out?

Thanks

Darren

[Tdci-Peter]

10 hours ago, DarrenNewsgroup said:

Q2, if the injectors are booked down directly can I spray carb cleaner around the area, agitate the area with a knife/toothbrush, then use a thin tube connected to a hoover to clean up as much gunk out of the area so I can tell if more diesel is being sprayed/leaking out?

Cleaning the area around the base of the injector sounds a good idea. It may reveal if there is still any leak, or if it just old muck. Carb Cleaner is quite vicious stuff. If there is any danger of getting it in connectors or on plastic parts, I would use something gentler like meths or Isopropyl Alchohol. These solvents are regularly used on even the most delicate electronic parts.

Haynes will give a bolt torque, though an old bolt would probably have to be removed and cleaned up before it could be properly re-torqued.

The injector solenoid drive pulses will be very short, time near TDC even at idle is only a few ms (milli seconds). And the pulses will be a small part of even that. So average voltage readings will be low. Probably too low even to get decent comparative readings between cylinders.

Anything that disturbs the high pressure piping to the injectors must be taken seriously. The pressure is huge (can be 22,000 PSI), and all the seals are easy to damage, when they will leak. No rubber seals or sealants are of any use at these pressures, it is all metal to metal seals. Invisible dirt particles are quite big enough to damage injector valve seats. There is a need for extreme cleanliness when opening up any high pressure pipework. So I would do all I could to confirm any injector problem before interfering with the pipes. Forscan and some other systems can read cylinder balance & other data that can give clues. Injector leak off tests only interfere with the low pressure return piping, so are relatively easy to do.

A DTC that keeps returning is something that needs to have its cause traced, and ideally fixed, as a priority. An ECU with stored DTCs may not be working in an optimum way. If it thinks a major sensor like the MAP is not working, it will have to run the engine is a conservative, less efficient or less powerful way.

 

[DarrenNewsgroup]

Cleaning the area around the base of the injector sounds a good idea. It may reveal if there is still any leak, or if it just old muck. Carb Cleaner is quite vicious stuff. If there is any danger of getting it in connectors or on plastic parts, I would use something gentler like meths or Isopropyl Alchohol. These solvents are regularly used on even the most delicate electronic parts.
Haynes will give a bolt torque, though an old bolt would probably have to be removed and cleaned up before it could be properly re-torqued.
The injector solenoid drive pulses will be very short, time near TDC even at idle is only a few ms (milli seconds). And the pulses will be a small part of even that. So average voltage readings will be low. Probably too low even to get decent comparative readings between cylinders.
Anything that disturbs the high pressure piping to the injectors must be taken seriously. The pressure is huge (can be 22,000 PSI), and all the seals are easy to damage, when they will leak. No rubber seals or sealants are of any use at these pressures, it is all metal to metal seals. Invisible dirt particles are quite big enough to damage injector valve seats. There is a need for extreme cleanliness when opening up any high pressure pipework. So I would do all I could to confirm any injector problem before interfering with the pipes. Forscan and some other systems can read cylinder balance & other data that can give clues. Injector leak off tests only interfere with the low pressure return piping, so are relatively easy to do.
A DTC that keeps returning is something that needs to have its cause traced, and ideally fixed, as a priority. An ECU with stored DTCs may not be working in an optimum way. If it thinks a major sensor like the MAP is not working, it will have to run the engine is a conservative, less efficient or less powerful way.
 

Thank you so much for all that detailed information, especially about high pressure pipes. I want to stay safe!

I am going to try and track down the MAP sensor fault first as I think that is probably what is causing the poor performance my daughter is currently seeing.

I would then move on to looking at what I can do with the injectors in place. Researching I see some people treating the injectors with kid gloves saying they break easy and others treating them as a lump of metal. I am not stupid enough to believe everything on YouTube so I might chicken out of unscrewing the injectors. However, if I can do a lot of the diagnostic work to figure out what needs replacing rather than paying mechanics labour rates I am willing to do that; it's also quite interesting.

I can get IPA quite easily so should I just put it on (pour it on or apply with small paintbrush?) the leaked diesel around the injector area, leave it for a few minutes, then try scraping off any loosened gunk, hoover the bits up, then repeat until fully clean (or clean enough)?

Also I have now got my email notifications working so I don't miss anything.

Thanks
Darren

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, DarrenNewsgroup said:

I can get IPA quite easily so should I just put it on (pour it on or apply with small paintbrush?) the leaked diesel around the injector area, leave it for a few minutes, then try scraping off any loosened gunk, hoover the bits up, then repeat until fully clean (or clean enough)?

Provided that it can not all seep down inside the engine to contaminate the engine oil, then you can be quite generous with it. I am not sure of the construction of the 1.4TDCI cam cover / inlet manifold, so can not say how easy it is to get solvent or dirt into the camshaft area and then into the oil. If there is risk of this, I would do it as you say, in stages, just softening the gunk a bit then removing it mechanically.

I may be able to help in using Forscan in data logging mode to read MAP, cylinder balance etc, though I am no expert. I have just used it a few times on my car.

I know what you mean about YouTube & injectors. Some parts of the injector are immensely strong, to withstand combustion and fuel rail pressures, but other bits like the nozzle and connectors are very easy to damage. So both brute force and care may be needed to remove them if stuck. Not the easiest combination!

[DarrenNewsgroup]

Provided that it can not all seep down inside the engine to contaminate the engine oil, then you can be quite generous with it. I am not sure of the construction of the 1.4TDCI cam cover / inlet manifold, so can not say how easy it is to get solvent or dirt into the camshaft area and then into the oil. If there is risk of this, I would do it as you say, in stages, just softening the gunk a bit then removing it mechanically.
I may be able to help in using Forscan in data logging mode to read MAP, cylinder balance etc, though I am no expert. I have just used it a few times on my car.
I know what you mean about YouTube & injectors. Some parts of the injector are immensely strong, to withstand combustion and fuel rail pressures, but other bits like the nozzle and connectors are very easy to damage. So both brute force and care may be needed to remove them if stuck. Not the easiest combination!

Hmmmm, if the injectors are not seated fully then I guess there is the chance of gunk slipping down the gaps or more likely the IPA getting in. All the videos that I've seen clean the gunk once the injectors have been removed and all holes plugged up with rags. Perhaps I better leave the cleaning alone until I've diagnosed any injector faults by the electrical tests. If an injector is faulty then I'll see about my mechanic doing the cleaning.

Darren

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

[Tdci-Peter]

3 hours ago, DarrenNewsgroup said:

if the injectors are not seated fully then I guess there is the chance of gunk slipping down the gaps or more likely the IPA getting in

I would not be too worried about either IPA or tiny traces of dirt getting in to the combustion chambers (cylinders). Plenty of smoke and fuel goes through those. I was thinking it might be like the 1.6TDCI, where the injectors go through the plastic cam cover to get to the CH, and that is through the camshaft area of the engine. But looking in more detail at photos of the 1.4, it looks pretty clear that the injectors are straight into the CH.

Unless the things are so loose that they wobble about, I doubt if anything will get into the combustion chamber that is worth worrying about. The peak pressure in those combustion chambers can easily be over 50Bar (700PSI), so if there were any appreciable gaps, you would notice it as soon as the engine started!

[DarrenNewsgroup]

I would not be too worried about either IPA or tiny traces of dirt getting in to the combustion chambers (cylinders). Plenty of smoke and fuel goes through those. I was thinking it might be like the 1.6TDCI, where the injectors go through the plastic cam cover to get to the CH, and that is through the camshaft area of the engine. But looking in more detail at photos of the 1.4, it looks pretty clear that the injectors are straight into the CH.
Unless the things are so loose that they wobble about, I doubt if anything will get into the combustion chamber that is worth worrying about. The peak pressure in those combustion chambers can easily be over 50Bar (700PSI), so if there were any appreciable gaps, you would notice it as soon as the engine started!

Thanks for checking that for me. I will probably have a go at cleaning the exterior then.

Looking at the receipts I notice the previous owner had 2 injector seals replaced and cleaned about 6 months ago. I guess I will end up needing to do the other 2 now. Hopefully that will fix most of the car's problems and my daughter can get to start liking it.

I am thinking of getting it a full service, injectors resealed and cleaned, cambelt and water pump (drive the car is just over 10 years old with 95,000 miles on the clock). Is there anything else I should get done by the mechanic while he is at it (thinking cheaper labour costs whilst the car is already in bits).

It had new discs and pads a few months before I bought it.

Darren

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

[DarrenNewsgroup]

On 3/20/2019 at 11:49 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

That is a hardware related error for the MAP sensor, it seems odd if it was to caused by the EGR blanking plate.

The item 12T551 on the drawing here is the MAP or Boost sensor.

This came from: https://ford.7zap.com/en/car/47/no/13/1549/15361/66696/

So it is connected by a hose to either that Resonator unit (9F763) or to the hose from it. It must be between the Turbo & the inlet manifold.

The original power dips do sound like an EGR problem, and this could have been putting the light on for EGR related codes. Blanking will stop the power dips.

I would thoroughly check & clean out the EGR and try to get rid of the MAP related code before considering an injector replacement!

Sorry for the delay in responding but I have only just been able to get access to the car! I found the MAP sensor thanks to the diagram. It was attached to the top left (looking down into the engine bay) of the air box. I am uploading some photos to a Google drive folder https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kIxR7mmX7VM3n_zuGb9xCUxvQqVvdUiw

It has 5 photos and 2 videos.

I think one of the problems is that the MAP sensor has a tube coming out of it at the bottom but on my daughter's car it is not connected to anything, just free air. The hose 9H308 is missing! However I managed to clear the MAP fault with the Android app Torque and confirmed it had gone with FORscan demo.

The 2 videos show the engine bay, one with the air box removed. I am not sure if someone can locate the offending hose. I looked at all the hoses around and they all seem to start and end somewhere so I think the house is just not fitted to the car. I don't know when it disappeared or was missing when we bought the car.

One of the photos shows the exit hole from the air box before going past the MAF sensor. This photo is meant to show a broken screw in the bottom middle of the photo (it looks brown). The screw head sheared off when I first undid the screw. Any ideas on how to remove it so I can replace it with a new one? I thought of drilling it out but that seems tricky due to restricted access. I tried a bit of WD40 but didn't go crazy with it in case it gets stuck on the inside of the tubing as I guess that is not good going into the engine. After the little bit of WD40 I tried grasping it with some mole grips but they never made a tight contact.

One photo of the bay (minus the air box) shows the 2 dirty injectors and the 2 clean ones. Also perhaps someone can find the missing MAP sensor hose from it if they don't/can't see the videos.

Any help will be appreciated.

I have chickened out from cleaning the injectors and getting my mechanic to do them.

Thanks

Darren

Edited March 27, 2019 by DarrenNewsgroup
Videos now uploaded

[DarrenNewsgroup]

One extra question on the photos in https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kIxR7mmX7VM3n_zuGb9xCUxvQqVvdUiw is what does the black "bar" do on the side of the air box (I am pointing to it in the picture). It doesn't seem to connect to anything and just flaps up and down.

Thanks

Darren

[Tdci-Peter]

13 hours ago, DarrenNewsgroup said:

one of the problems is that the MAP sensor has a tube coming out of it at the bottom but on my daughter's car it is not connected to anything, just free air. The hose 9H308 is missing! However I managed to clear the MAP fault with the Android app Torque and confirmed it had gone with FORscan demo.

Unfortunately my system can't seem to read the Google drive pictures. I can see the thumbnails, but not get the full res. images. It is a bit old (Win XP) and has a few limitations now. You can upload photos to this site, drag them into the marked area in the reply box.

Has the MAP error stayed clear after using the car? If the hose is missing, then I would expect it to return as soon as the turbo was used, as the ECU would see no boost. A MAP sensor will be connected into either the Inlet manifold (which is built in to the plastic cam cover on the 2008 1.4), or into the little resonator box between the turbo and the manifold. It has to be on the engine side of the turbo. It will not be connected to the airbox that houses the air filter, as this is before the turbo and is not pressurised.

I have looked for just where the hose should go, but not seen a decent picture yet.

The broken screw sounds a real pain. A long drill bit might do it. But be very careful not to get metal fragments or swarf into the intake system. They can damage valves or even pistons when they get to the engine. WD40 will not do any harm though, plenty of engine oil gets into the system from the turbo & crankcase breather system.

[DarrenNewsgroup]

I am attaching the photos to this post. The picture with the item in my hand, is that the MAP sensor? Another photo shows that bit screwed to the air box, that's where I found it on my car. As you can see the tube is not attached to anything. The photo of the engine bay without the air box is to show all the pipework and I can't see a spare pipe to attach to the MAP sensor. I did manage to clear the fault code and it didn't come on again when I started the car but your advice probably explains why (I didn't use the turbo). My daughter said today that she wants to throw the car away as it won't go above 60mph without jolting badly. I guess that is the MAP sensor/ECU saying no boost so it'll probably have the fault code again when she gets back home.

Drive she wants to throw the car away or at least get a second car to drive and boyfriend can use this one as a run around I cancelled the injector clean.

The photo with me pointing at the air box corner is to do with asking what the plastic bar does. The air intake one shows the broken screw.

Darren

[Tdci-Peter]

2 hours ago, DarrenNewsgroup said:

The picture with the item in my hand, is that the MAP sensor? Another photo shows that bit screwed to the air box, that's where I found it on my car. As you can see the tube is not attached to anything. The photo of the engine bay without the air box is to show all the pipework and I can't see a spare pipe to attach to the MAP sensor.

The part you are holding certainly looks very much like the MAP sensor. The parts drawing shows (just about!) a short 90° rubber pipe which you still seem to have, then a thinner pipe. On my car, there is a similar arrangement, and the thinner pipe did break near one end. In your case it looks like the rest of the hose has been removed, but not replaced. There is a suspicious looking hole in the plastic duct right at the bottom of the photo of the engine bay. If that hole goes into a duct between turbo & engine, then that is the place. Just needs a bit of hose to link it up.

Whether the MAP sensor will cause juddering at speed, I do not know. It is more likely to cause loss of power, and error lamps on and possible limp home mode.

Also I am suspicious that the MAP sensor may not be working, and the loss of the hose is the result of a failed attempt to replace it. That is from the description of the code. If the sensor was working but not connected to the manifold, I would expect a different error. But it is only a suspicion, from experience I know these codes, though usually pointing in the right general area, are often misleading in detail ways. A second hand sensor with its hose might provide an answer to those questions.

[DarrenNewsgroup]

Sorry for the long delay in replying back to all the help you have given.
Mr daughter bought another car as an immediate fix to get transport issues. The faulty car is now on my front drive and I now have the chance to try and fix it at my leisure as I no longer need to take bits apart and put back together again for my daughter to use the next day. I have more immediate jobs in the house so it may be a few weeks before I report back on my progress.
Thanks Darren

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

[DarrenNewsgroup]

An update on the car. I sold it.

I had too many other house jobs to do so I put it up for sale and mentioned the known faults thinking if someone would buy it cheap to fix then the problem is off my hands. Nobody in my family needed the car so I would only be fixing it to sell it again. If nobody bought it then I would get back to fixing it when I finished my other jobs (months away).

I told the person about the problems so he knew he was buying a faulty car. He seemed to know what he was looking at. He thought it was NOT the injectors. I asked him to tell me what the problem was when he gets it fixed. I will report back when (if) he replies in case it helps someone else.

Thanks to everyone for their help. Even though I didn't get it fixed I appreciate your time and efforts.

Darren

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

[DarrenNewsgroup]

A final update on the car saga. I rang the chap who bought (a few weeks ago) the car to see if he managed to fix it and get it back on the road. Sadly he rattled off several other faults with the car so I guess we will never be able to say EXACTLY how the car was faulty.

It would have been nice to be able to help others. Thanks to the people who have contributed their time and effort in trying to help me but this car was beyond me.

Thanks
Darren

Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk

[zain611]

That's sad to hear. Scares me myself that their can be problems like this. 

[mota-mouth]

On 3/20/2019 at 7:18 PM, DarrenNewsgroup said:

Thanks guys for the responses. She said today that the car was really juddering at 70mph on the motorway so had to slow it down to 60mph. She is not happy at the moment. I will try and remove the EGR valve on the weekend and clean it up and remove the blanking plate (£3 off eBay). I will look at how to do the leak off test. What should I use to clean the EGR with?

Darren

Hi Darren,

Don't need to go to the lengths of removing the EGR, I clean mine with an EGR carburettor spray,it took my EGR light off straightaway after driving car a little.

You usually,I've found need more than 1 can,I used 2.

1 can in one go,short bursts as it does up the rev counter for few seconds.

Go on YouTube,rather than me explain,its dead easy to do,I e the same car as ya daughter too.

Also I had the shuddering at higher speeds,on diesels it. An be a few things but...a common problem is clogged fuel filter,defo get that replaced for new one,and fuel injectors,ya can get a fuel tank additive and used regularly say every 2 or 3 months,will clean entire fuel system,get one that says fuel injector and fuel system cleaner,these need to be used regularly.

I do most of my repairs on my fiesta 2008 tdci 1.4 diesel.

And I'm pretty good at fault finding.

Get an OBD2 OBD2 scanner only cost me £20 plug into the cars OBD port,like an old scart plug in really,mines on drivers side open the plastic compartment roughly were ya daughters right knee will be.

And it's a white plastic looking port,to plug .the scanner tool in.

So here's 3 things that definitely cause shuddering Darren:

1: clogged fuel filter 

2: dirty clogged fuel injectors

3: bad fuel pump or fuel sender unit.

Defo do number 1 + 2,then get daughter to drive at 70 mph again,see if shuddering stops mate.

Hope I've helped Darren,always try the easiest cheapest things 1st,too many ppl in my experience go rushing in to tell ya it's this it's that,and it. An cost a small fortune.

Try fuel filter 1st,oh also see if your air filter is really dirty or even clogged,cheap and only takes few mins to replace.

 

Hope this helps you and daughter.

Steve,Nottingham 

 

[Martin ing]

Hi Steve did you ever find out what the injector issue was, mine runs on 3 and when I plug number 4 in it won't start, doing my head in, any advice ?