Good evening all. My name is Ray and I'm a first time poster. Hope you're all well. My problem is this.. I have a ford ecosport 2018 1.5 diesel. I changed the battery, correct spec etc. now the car will crank but not start. I have reset the battery system. Rechecked my work, checked fuses. Disconnected battery for a time, used a different key. Nothing has made a difference, tried easy start , still won't fire up with that. I'm at a loss as to why this car will not start. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

Hi Tim, welcome to the forum 😁

lets say you grew up when You took responsibility to do things properly - not relied on your mother, or computers to wipe your bottom.... and you dip the clutch to turn off (conventional) cruise, and slow down as you see the traffic in front is stopped. Do you now want the car to race into a crash (or expect it to slow down as that's what's needed) ? I can imagine in that scenario, many of today's drivers may panic and crash. Add that stupidity to much of modern logic, and you may find it remains engaged where conditions mean you spent the last 10 mins managing your (faster speeds) and you may not even realise its still "helping". I'm on a loan bike that has conventional cruise - and just 25 mins ago it did exactly this - and thus it raced at stationary traffic just as I was expecting engine braking to modulate my speed down, as I arrived at a set of red traffic lights.... It wasn't a big problem but the bike got a wobble on and I had to brake sharper than I wanted to bother with to get the thing to behave ! That inconvenience is far more irritating than me re engaging cruise when I can see conditions permit - Pure madness ! And that is another example of quite how stupid Ford engineering has become with regards to safety ! She has a 57 PLATE mk2 ford focus - its original GEM module allowed me to set cruise in 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear at 22 mph and then reduce it to 19mph without it ever misbehaving - and was perfect for use over successions of speed bumps or in 20mph zones... To add more toys I needed a higher spec GEM and got one that was produced six months later - But by now some halfwit at Ford had updated its software to stupidville... Now I can't use cruise in 2nd gear at all - I only set cruise after 26mph, (yet it often fails to set reliably unless its doing at least 27 to 28mph), and I can't get it to slow to 20 mph at all. Now 25 mph is the minimum speed and even this often cuts out. Yet everything at speeds higher than 29mph works 100% reliably and identically to the old module in 3rd gear or higher. So we now have the 3 year olds at Ford Engineering adding dangerous new features and removing safe and useful old ones - Utter Pillocks !!!

I didn't mention sourcing another door as I guessed (apologies if I'm wrong) that Craig was looking for the simplest solution. Certainly a good alternative to attempting to repair a badly damaged door. Quite a few of the doors on Ebay at present seem to need cosmetic repair, though. You really need to inspect them personally. (As an aside, a friend of mine had a quite badly damaged rear door on his wife's Fiesta some years back. His local bodyshop (who are very good and reasonably priced) suggested going down the breakers replacement door route and sourced and fitted an immaculate door in the exact colour. All good until we noticed that the "new" door glass had dark tint and the originals were untinted. The shop admitted they had failed to check and duly swapped the glass over foc.)

It's mentioned on Titanium in this one, in line with Tom's post above: fiesta (1).pdf

The 2022 Transit I drive at work does not have adaptive cruise control. The ability to shift with the cruise does not seem strange to me. My mother once had a car with aftermarket cruise but no clutch sensor. So the cruise control would rev the engine to the rev limiter if you pressed the clutch with the cruise control set. That was strange!

Thank you, that's very helpful and gives me a much better understanding of what's happening. I hadn't considered that the display staying on was actually a symptom of the CANbus network not going to sleep. I'll do some testing and see if I can isolate the module causing it. Really appreciate the advice.

At the moment I'm using the socket by the gear stick for power, but I have to keep unplugging it. I have a Focus 2016 ecoboost, I have the hardwire kit. What fuse number slot should I use for the piggy back, and where's the nearest earth I can use. And apparently it's important which way the the small piggy back wire faces! Cheers.

This is a classic symptom of a well-known problem. The display constantly being illuminated after the car is locked indicates that the CANbus network does not enter sleep mode. This means that literally all CANbus modules in the vehicle are staying awake and keep consuming power. Literally every CANbus module inside the vehicle can have developed a hardware or software problem causing this. However, the most common causes are the Bluetooth/Voicecontrol module, audio system and instrument cluster. Finding the actual cause can be a challenge. Your best chance will be disconnecting modules until the CANbus network enters sleep mode.

The sensors need to be programmed to the vehicle. Just resetting the system does not help. The TPMS system needs to be put into program mode and then each individual sensor needs to be trained using a special tool that wakes it up and makes it transmit. The new sensors also need to be the correct type for the vehicle. Ford uses several different TPMS sensors which are not interchangeable.